Woody, fresh, sweet, floral: fragrance families explained

Perfumers group fragrances into families based on their dominant character. The exact systems vary, but the idea is the same: if you like one woody fragrance, you are more likely to like another than to like a random floral. Knowing your families is the quickest shortcut to finding scents you will actually finish.

Woody

Built on cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli and oakmoss. Dry, warm and grounded, often with spice or incense on top. Woody fragrances tend to feel composed and understated.

Fresh

Citrus, green notes, aquatic and airy materials. Bright, clean and easy, and the natural choice for heat. Fresh fragrances usually open strongly and soften quickly.

Sweet, sometimes called gourmand

Vanilla, praline, caramel, coffee, fruit and anything that smells edible. Warm and comforting, and the most popular family in recent years.

Floral

The largest and oldest family: rose, jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, orange blossom. Ranges from fresh and green to heady and creamy. White flowers such as jasmine and tuberose are the richest of the group.

Aromatic, oud and amber

Aromatic scents use herbs and spices such as cardamom, pepper and lavender. Oud and amber scents are resinous, deep and warm. Both lean toward evenings and cooler weather, and both are worth trying once you know your way around the others.

How to find your family

1. Write down two or three fragrances you have loved, from any brand.
2. Look up their notes and see which family they share.
3. Start your next search there, and try one step outside it.